Love letter to Karatu…


An Ode to Karatu
I moved- well, who am I kidding- my parents hauled us to Arusha from Mbeya twenty three years ago.


At the time it was just my sister and I, our youngest sibling wasn’t even in the works by then … actually
in those other works I guess he was (naughty naughty!)

Anyways, my point is Arusha is my town since before it was made a city during Kikwete’s time of
presidency. This town has earned my love by bits and now I am in awe: the markets (my relationships
with the numerous markets need a whole written piece of its own!), but yes the markets- quite colorful,
crowded (yes, that concept that most of us are now craving…thanks to COVID!!), fresh goods and most
of them even rare ones- fruits, vegetables, spices and odd things that I never know I needed until they
cross my eyes- these and more only at the market baby!


The streets with all names that you find in most others Tanzanian regions, but hear even these streets
have character that is so Arushan. Uhuru road, Kanisa road, Haile Selasie, Goliondoi … neighborhoods
too- Sekei, Sakina, Kijenge, Kaloleni, Mbauda, Majengo and more. I know this town like the back of my
hand -it’s what I say to my friends; and I learned of it’s crevasses, curves, potholes, dark and bright spots
all by intention, because that’s what you do when you want to explore where your feet and bum are.
So in 2014, I got a job and moved to Karatu; one of the districts constituting Arusha region. We had lived
in Loliondo for a while in 1998/1999 and we used to drive through Karatu to get there. I remember a
red, dusty, isolated stop filled with garages and guest houses. This vibe still exists, however, now there is
a tarmac road that has opened this place up in un imaginable ways, some of which I’ll spill here.


There is eye-blinding beauty in nature out here, living big impression on your memory in the semblance
of fresh scars; the hills have a community of their own, rolling on and on in various shades of blue from
afar and lush green close up; a whole new shade of red, mirage and gold takes over on the dry months;
the works that can cause or chase a migraine depending with how in touch one is to their camera lens.

In the past years, I chose to explore this dusty tourist stop. I began taking walks at the end of my work
day and sometimes on the weekend I’d wonder off for up to 3 hours, armed with my phone for pictures
and in case I run into a lost elephant or buffalo- for lo and behold where I was at, these loitered the
place! My ‘fanny pack’ and once in a while water. Some days it was 3km simple walks, and others 7km of
steep hikes up and down to Neptune Lodge right before the gate to the conservation- these was on the
days I had to train for Kilimanjaro climb. My thighs have lived within a story I hope.


There is Oldeani, a stop known to be as old as Nairobi and once a hotspot for settlers; the village now
harbors various coffee estates, wheat farms and small workers camps; the hills (or is it Gyetighi
mountains?) keeping guard of its habitats- animals, both man and wild. These hills are gorgeous at all
times: mornings and during cold season, the heavens come to dine with the earth, and slowly kisses
away living behind clear blue skies, direct sun light and a hulk of hills going on endlessly. All of it being a
sight for a sore eye.


See, what you don’t know and cannot comprehend until you have been to that place is that these hills
are what Ngorongoro rests on; they are the shoulders on which the crater saw fit to divulge it’s
contents. It is no wonder then that antelopes, buffaloes, elephants, leopards and rhino roam about
unregulated. Villagers are no longer shocked nor scared when either of these is sighted close by; the
only worry is usually little kids to and from schools and farm work.

Then there are the numerous grand spots in and around karatu- The Manor, Gibb’s farm, Plantations,
Ngorongoro farm House, the Retreat and Kudu lodge- with epically outstanding décor, flattering
landscape, offering stunning views of the town. Watu! Kuna ile hali usipojua hujui una miss nini in life
adi ujionee…? So when you know what’s out there and you can, please do splurge on yourself kwa
sababu maisha ni haya tu. Personally I took away so many tips of how unconventional I would want my
‘humble’ abode to be when I am ready to this adult thing and build a home for me.


Sitting on the border between Monduli district and Karatu is Mto wa Mbu- yes there’s a ton of
mosquitoes in that town due to rice paddies and a big river that runs through into lake Manyara. This is
where I spent my last weekend with my work place girls to bid bah-bye to this stage.


There’s a jewel overlooking the Manyara National Park, one Migombani camp- see, I’m even getting
goosebumps! I have driven past the said juncture so many times but never have I thought to venture up
that ka-sharp hill into the shrubs and huge baobab trees that I one see from the road. It’s a simple camp,
lush grass ( I took my shoes off and almost never put them back on!), a backdrop of upright standing
ridge side of the great rift valley, a view of the national park and lake within the basin. The tents are private and cozy, same views can be observed even from the comfort of your bed- and that is what yours truly here did: woke up early, freshened up, read and napped with the tent lapels open, listening to the soundtrack of wind and birds chirping away.

All in all, I hope I paint a vivid image- but words can only do so much. I am beyond blessed to have experienced all this and much more… Until next time..!

Bisous,

Betty!